20mm 管道直连器

20mm Conduit Straight Connector

2023-08-26 10:01:55

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Summary

WARNING: DO NOT USE FOR ELECTRICAL PURPOSES. THE BOLT HOLES, IF USED WILL GO THROUGH THE WIRING (AN OBVIOUS ELECTRICAL HAZARD) THIS IS FOR MAKING FRAMES TO SUPPORT PLANTS/NETS/FROST COVERS/OUTDOOR STRUCTURES.

Are you a gardener, market farmer, or looking to make/fix a hoop house cheaply?
Do you use frost covers and netting to protect your plants and/or crops?

Then using the freely available, relatively cheap 20mm electrical conduit as your framing material may be the ideal solution. However, while you can absolutely use saddle clamps, and star pickets with twine/wire to anchor each end of the arched conduit, the connectors to make better, or more complex designs aren't commercially available, and the ones I've seen in stores aren't designed for load bearing stresses and strains.

Unfortunately, the conduit manufacturers (Like the DETA brand found here in Australia) are only for light duty electrical applications, so they simply don't make a viable connector for this purpose, (literally all of mine broke on a gusty day) so I have designed a range of better ones.

This is a STRONG, straight-connector to use 20mm electrical conduit for garden trellises, frost cover and netting support, as well as hoop houses. It makes it ideal if you're using conduit off-cuts to make longer lengths, or making repairs to existing structures.

But why stop there?

If you're looking for the 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 , 9or even 10-way connector for 20mm conduit, I have an entire range to help you to make weird/wacky/fanciful 2D and 3D trellises and frames. Some of the more unusual models (3,5 and 6 way connectors) have been built with domes in mind (using bent conduit) and even full geodesic dome structures.

1- Way "Stake styled" Anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228095

1-Way "Screw down" anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228135

2-Way "Straight" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187349

2-Way "Right-Angle" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6188056

3-Way "Y" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181085

4-Way Cross Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163584

5-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181104

6-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181111

7-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187567

8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6167506

Half 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6195584

Quarter 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6196723

9-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6190630

10-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6182651

My design has three things going for it:

It can be easily printed without ANY supports whatsoever.
It is FAR stronger, and takes advantage of "laid flat" orientation to minimise the weaknesses involved in layered FDM printing) and if that isn't enough...
I included M4 bolt holes so you can simultaneously:

a) Lock the conduit into the connector using the bolt. (Drill a hole through the conduit first, obviously)

b) Use the M4 bolt to ensure the layers of the connector are held together, even under significant strain.

NOTES:

While I don't recommend PLA for this purpose, (It's exposed to UV and water after all) I chose to use PETG and protect the conduit from UV by wrapping it in duct tape. It's working well so far, but we'll see how it's going after a couple of seasons.

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Prusa
Printer:
I3 MK3S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1mm
Infill:
50%
Filament brand:
Sunlu, eSun, Prusament, Tecor, doesn't matter
Filament color:
White is best, but I'd tape it to protect from UV
Filament material:
PETG

Notes:

Note: I intentionally went for significant strength, so in PrusaSlicer, v.2.6, I made the following setting adjustments (I click the "Expert" button to show all the settings):

In Print Settings > Layers and Perimeters:

Set resolution/layer height to 0.1mm
Increased the number of "Vertical shells"/Perimeter layers to 8 or 10 (can't quite remember)
Enabled "Detect Bridging Perimeters"
Set seam position to "Aligned" (in advanced section)
Enabled "Fill gaps" (in advanced section)
Set Perimeter Generator to "Arachne"

In Print Settings > Infill:

Fill density 50%
Fill pattern: "Gyroid" (although you can use what you prefer)
Top fill pattern : "Monotonic Lines"
Bottom fill pattern: "Monotonic"

Post-Printing

Tips for adding bolts, and considerations doing that...

Now, you'll notice that each limb of this connector has a bolt hole. It's officially a 5mm hole, but it's intended for an M4 (4mm) bolt. if you prefer imperial measurements, I believe that's a 5/32" bolt. In terms of length, you MIGHT be able to get away with 40mm, but to be safe I use a 45mm (1 and 3/4" for those in imperial-driven lands).

USE THE CONNECTOR BOLT HOLES TO GUIDE YOUR DRILL BIT!

Firstly, while you can drill through both sides if you're pre-drilling on a drill press, I actually found that it's better to drill the conduit "in situ" (to ensure one end isn't twisted off axis compared to the other) with a cordless drill. In fact, I "friction fit" the entire frame assembly THEN drill my holes so everything lines up as it should.

Secondly, don't try to drill ALL the way through the conduit/connector from one side. Drill each side of the conduit tube hole separately, and if you REALLY want to eliminate drift/rotation problems from one side of the conduit to the next, I found drilling one hole, inserting a short 4mm wide bolt/dowel/PVC wall plug "spaghetti" into the first drilled hole, locked it in place while drilling the other side....

It's easy, simply drive your conduit all the way into the conduit hole, hold it there, and drill your 4mm or 5/32" hole into the conduit. Insert dowelSome of my joins don't even have bolts because I... frankly ran out of bolts. So I actually used my 4mm "spaghetti" to lock the conduit in place, and when I ran out of that, the friction fit has... so far, worked well.

LET'S TALK ABOUT NUTS & NETS:

I chose 45mm long bolts because the connector is 35mm high, and with the remaining 10mm or so I can then put washers on either side, then use a deeper-styled nylon locking nut.

However, nuts, and indeed, bolt heads may cause issues with snagging nets. To avoid this issue, I STRONGLY encourage you to consider netting with as tight a weave as you can get. You'll get fewer birds dive-bombing through the looser weaves, and it'll be less likely to catch and tangle.