20mm双向直角连接管道，用于花园篱笆、网架及霜盖。

20mm Conduit, 2-Way, right-angled connector for garden trellis/net/frost cover

2023-08-26 23:05:54

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Summary

WARNING: DO NOT USE THIS FOR ELECTRICAL PURPOSES, THE BOLT HOLES (IF USED) WOULD GO THROUGH THE WIRES (AN OBVIOUS SAFETY ISSUE), THIS IS FOR GARDEN/OUTDOOR FRAME WORK PURPOSES ONLY.

Are you a gardener, market gardener, or farmer and want to protect your crops? Are you looking for a way to build fanciful 2D/3D frames for netting, frost covers, hoop houses, green houses, trellises, rudimentary shelter with flexible limbs? Then you might want to have a look at this right-angle joiner/connector for 20mm conduit.

WHY 20MM CONDUIT?

I use a lot of 20mm electrical conduit to support my frost covers, netting, and 2D/3D trellises. Some use them for hoop houses and green houses too.

I like the 20mm conduit because it's very cheap, available everywhere, lasts for ages, is flexible, and yet, with the right structure... it's quite rigid. However, the connectors to create fanciful 2D/3D structures aren't available in stores, and the commercial connectors are for electrical purposes only.. no where NEAR strong enough to handle the weight/stresses of bent conduit, particularly in windy locations.

Also, 20mm conduit has one additional benefit over thicker options. If combined with frost covering, you can use 50mm bulldog clips to attach/anchor the fabric/netting, directly around the conduit, this further reinforces the frame too.

WHY A RIGHT-ANGLED 2-WAY?

This is the 2-Way, right angled connector.. which is useful in certain situations. I actually built it with doubling up some of the longer legs on simple dome like trellises/netting/frost cover frames in mind. As fruit trees get bigger, a frame using 20mm conduit gets pretty... wobbly. So it needs more supports to form a honeycomb structure. Also, it can create "broken arch" style 2D trellises, or even 3D with some creativity.

Why limit yourself to joints with 2 sockets?

I've also created a whole series of connectors for 20mm conduit. Seriously, why be boring with rectangular frames and trellises?

1- Way "Stake styled" Anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228095

1-Way "Screw down" anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228135

2-Way "Straight" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187349

2-Way "L" or "right angle" connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6188056

3-Way T-connector found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163480

3-Way, Y-connector found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181085

4-Way "cross" connector, found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163584

5-Way "star?" connector, found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181104

6-Way connector found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181111

7-Way connector found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187567

8-Way found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6167506

Half 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6195584

Quarter 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6196723

9-Way found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6190630

10-Way found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6182651

WHY THE FLAT DESIGN?

My design basis (for all of these connectors) has three things going for it:

It can be easily printed without ANY supports whatsoever.
It is FAR stronger than commercial connectors, and takes advantage of "laid flat" orientation to minimise the weaknesses involved in layered FDM printing) and if that isn't enough...
I included M4 bolt holes so you can simultaneously:

a) Lock the conduit into the connector using the bolt. (Drill a hole through the conduit first, obviously)

b) Use the M4 bolt, nut and washers to ensure the layers of the connector are held together, even under significant strain. Hand tight is enough, you don't want to crush the plastic.

NOTES:

While I don't recommend PLA for this purpose, (It's exposed to UV and water after all) I chose to use PETG and protect the conduit from UV by wrapping it in duct tape. It's working well so far, but we'll see how it's going after a couple of seasons.

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Prusa
Printer:
I3 MK3S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1mm
Infill:
50%
Filament brand:
Prusament, Sunlu, Tecor... doesn't matter
Filament color:
White is best, but paint/tape it up to protect from UV
Filament material:
PETG
Notes:
Note: I intentionally went for significant strength, so in PrusaSlicer, v.2.6, I made the following setting adjustments (I click the "Expert" button to show all the settings):

In Print Settings > Layers and Perimeters:

Set resolution/layer height to 0.1mm
Increased the number of "Vertical shells"/Perimeter layers to 8 or 10 (can't quite remember)
Enabled "Detect Bridging Perimeters"
Set seam position to "Aligned" (in advanced section)
Enabled "Fill gaps" (in advanced section)
Set Perimeter Generator to "Arachne"

In Print Settings > Infill:

Fill density 50%
Fill pattern: "Gyroid" (although you can use what you prefer)
Top fill pattern : "Monotonic Lines"
Bottom fill pattern: "Monotonic"

Post-Printing

Tips for adding bolts, and considerations doing that...

Now, you'll notice that each limb of this connector has a bolt hole. It's officially a 5mm hole, but it's intended for an M4 (4mm) bolt. if you prefer imperial measurements, I believe that's a 5/32" bolt. In terms of length, you MIGHT be able to get away with 40mm, but to be safe I use a 45mm (1 and 3/4" for those in imperial-driven lands).

USE THE CONNECTOR BOLT HOLES TO GUIDE YOUR DRILL BIT!

Firstly, while you can drill through both sides if you're pre-drilling on a drill press, I actually found that it's better to drill the conduit "in situ" (to ensure one end isn't twisted off axis compared to the other) with a cordless drill. In fact, I "friction fit" the entire frame assembly THEN drill my holes so everything lines up as it should.

Secondly, don't try to drill ALL the way through the conduit/connector from one side. Drill each side of the conduit tube hole separately, and if you REALLY want to eliminate drift/rotation problems from one side of the conduit to the next, I found drilling one hole, inserting a short 4mm wide bolt/dowel/PVC wall plug "spaghetti" into the first drilled hole, locked it in place while drilling the other side....

It's easy, simply drive your conduit all the way into the conduit hole, hold it there, and drill your 4mm or 5/32" hole into the conduit. Insert dowelSome of my joins don't even have bolts because I... frankly ran out of bolts. So I actually used my 4mm "spaghetti" to lock the conduit in place, and when I ran out of that, the friction fit has... so far, worked well.

LET'S TALK ABOUT NUTS & NETS:

I chose 45mm long bolts because the connector is 35mm high, and with the remaining 10mm or so I can then put washers on either side, then use a deeper-styled nylon locking nut.

However, nuts, and indeed, bolt heads may cause issues with snagging nets. To avoid this issue, I STRONGLY encourage you to consider netting with as tight a weave as you can get. You'll get fewer birds dive-bombing through the looser weaves, and it'll be less likely to catch and tangle.