Logitech X56油门损坏的修复指南

Repairing a Broken Logitech X56 Throttle

2023-09-08 17:35:39

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Summary

MOST IMPORTANT!!! IF YOUR X56 IS UNDER WARRANTY, USE IT FIRST!!! This guide is for when that is not an option.

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This is my 2nd Logitech X56 HOTAS, and probably my last. That said, it works fine except for the problem that occurred to both as shown here. https://i.imgur.com/d0VTRWW.mp4 . The first I attributed to a fall it took that I can't blame on Logitech. But then the same thing happened to my second X56. Granted I am a bit hard on hardware, but this does appear to be a weak point of these throttles. In any case both were out of warranty by the time it happened. My initial solution involved modified metal brackets, disassembling the throttle, drilling, velcroing the two throttle sliders together, and bolts. (You can see a leftover of that in the second photo). I was never really happy with the solution. It "worked", but there was binding/sticking now and then, and thing never did quite line up. So, I finally got around to designing these small blocks with a plan in mind and printed many iterations until I got the dimension just right.

WHAT I USED FOR THIS REPAIR (see third photo)
1) Four prints of the STL. I Highly recommend PETG+ or harder material, not PLA.
2) Two #6 or #8 machine screws with nuts, 1.5" inches in length (or metric equivalents)
3) Drill with 5/32" drill bit (or metric equivalent)
4) CLEAR Gorilla Glue or similar. Do NOT use original Gorilla, as it swells a lot.
5) Phillips screwdriver

STEP 1
Remove the screws circled in the second picture with your philips screwdriver. (Remains of my previous repair are seen here, also remove if you've done this or similar).

STEP 2
Drill through the exposed hole as straight as possible and out the other side with the 5/32" bit. At least with my two X56 units, the wires inside were not at risk of getting touched.

STEP 3
Referencing first photo, apply Clear Gorilla Glue or similar to the sides of a printed throttle brace that will touch the throttle. This would be the SLOPED SIDE and the adjacent SHORT SIDE. Remove any excess glue or you might end up gluing more than the brace! Referencing the fourth photo, place the brace as mentioned against the throttle.

STEP 4
Insert a machine screw through the brace. To pass through the throttle, you'll need to use a screwdriver if using a #8 machine screw. The fit is snug but shouldn't require too much force. Once the tip exits the other side repeat STEP 3 with another brace, finish driving through the screw, then add the matching nut. Snug down tight.

Repeat STEPS 3 and 4 to the other throttle slider.

STEP 5
Depending on how bad the breakage is within the throttle, you may need to support it in different ways. In my case I needed masking tape (should have used low residue) and a ratchet strap to apply the right amount of pressure so all surfaces contacted as they should. Inspect after a couple of hours and reposition as appropriate, but I recommend allowing a full 24 hours for it all to cure up completely.

With luck, you've given your HOTAS a new lease on life. Or at least until you've saved up for a VKB setup :)

All the best, Nom

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender-3 S1 Pro
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.20mm
Infill:
none, 100% solid
Filament brand:
Inland (Microcenter)
Filament color:
Translucent Red
Filament material:
PETG+
Notes:
I recommend printing as oriented in the STL. It ensures no supports needed and best for the direction of force applied by the machine screw and nut when installed.

This is a really small part. There is no real reason to print an infill and doing so could compromise its strength, ESPECIALLY if you print with PLA.