火箭造型夜灯/办公桌灯

Rocket Nightlight/Desk Light

2024-01-10 10:47:11

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Summary

This project is an alternate version of the Galilao[sic] thermometor[sic] rocket light, which replaces the (glass) Galileo thermometer in the center part of the hull with a translucent diffraction tube and support that goes into the center of the tube that holds a string of LED lights. The intent is to turn the project into a kid-safe nightlight or desk light. The nosecone, hull, four fins, and engine cone with USB LED are unchanged from the original STL files; you will need those four files from the original project. (I didn't use the Engine_cone.STL file.) This "thing" adds two files for the diffraction tube and a post support that holds a string of LED lights that goes up the center of the tube.

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Flsun
Printer:
Flsun V400
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
Doesn't Matter
Notes:
I sliced this project with Orcaslicer 1.8.1. I used several different filaments for the print. The details for each are as follows.

Nosecone: Hatchbox PLA orange, 205°C nozzle, 65°C bed, Z-hop on (Reduce infill retraction unchecked), 10mm brim, .2 mm layer height, ironing on all top surfaces, 30% infill, 25 mm/s first layer speed, 40 mm/s first layer infill speed, other layers: 100 mm/s, 120 mm/s, no supports needed.

Hull: Hatchbox PLA white: 205°C nozzle, 65°C bed, Z-hop on (Reduce infill retraction unchecked), 10mm brim, .2 mm layer height, ironing on all top surfaces, 30% infill, 50 mm/s first layer speed, 100 mm/s first layer infill speed, other layers: 100 mm/s, 120 mm/s, tree supports with 50° angle and 90% first layer density.

Fins (x4): tonerplastics PLA ocean blue, 210°C nozzle, 65°C bed, Z-hop on (Reduce infill retraction unchecked), 10mm brim, .2 mm layer height, ironing on all top surfaces, 30% infill, 15 mm/s first layer speed, 15 mm/s first layer infill speed, other layers: 100 mm/s, 120 mm/s, tree supports with 50° angle and 90% first layer density.

Engine cone with USB LED: Hatchbox PLA black: 205°C nozzle, 65°C bed, Z-hop on (Reduce infill retraction unchecked), 10mm brim, .2 mm layer height, ironing on all top surfaces, 30% infill, 50 mm/s first layer speed, 100 mm/s first layer infill speed, other layers: 100 mm/s, 120 mm/s, tree supports with 50° angle and 90% first layer density.

Diffraction tube: Overture PETG clear, 240°C nozzle, 80°C bed, no cooling for the first three layers, ironing on all top surfaces, 15% infill (honeycomb pattern), 15 mm/s first layer speed, 15 mm/s first layer infill speed, other layers: 40 mm/s, 40 mm/s, tree supports with 50° angle and 90% first layer density. I have found that the slower you print clear/transparent material, the more transparent it prints.

LED light string support: Hatchbox PLA white: 205°C nozzle, 65°C bed, Z-hop on (Reduce infill retraction unchecked), 10mm brim, .2 mm layer height, ironing on all top surfaces, 30% infill, 50 mm/s first layer speed, 50 mm/s first layer infill speed, other layers: 100 mm/s, 120 mm/s, tree supports with 50° angle and 90% first layer density.

Z-hop settings: Length: 0.8mm, Z-hop when retracting: 0.4mm, Z-hop type: normal, retraction speed: 25 mm/s, detraction speed: 10 mm/s

Post-Printing

Assembly of the LEDs and rocket

The only part requiring glue is the nosecone, which is glued to the hull's top. Everything else either locks or screws into place. I was surprised by how well and tight the fins lock into place.

I used the following parts to supply the lighting:

[LEDENET RGBW strip](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HBMN4YO)
[BTF-LIGHTING Mini 5 PIN RGBW 5050 RGB+White RF Remote Controller](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M62B2C8)
[LEDMO Power Supply](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ)
[EZlifego Heavy Duty Double Sided Tape](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VNSXY31)

Cut the LEDENET RGBW strip down to four sections of LEDs (with three white and three RGB lights per section).
Plug the controller into the LED strip (with a 5-pin male-to-male adapter if needed). I recommend using shrink wrap over this connection to make it hard to pull apart.
Thread the led strip through the rocket cone, through the LED light string support, and arrange half of the strip on each side of the support post using the double-stick tape pre-applied to the LED strips. I also added two zip ties (at the top and bottom of the post) to ensure the strip stays in place.
The connector fits nicely into the LED opening in the rocket cone. A small piece of heavy-duty double-stick tape keeps it in place.
Plug the other end of the controller into the power supply.