雅达利 000609-02 游戏手柄（及变速器）外壳和球体

Atari 000609-02 Joystick (and shifter) Housing and Ball

2024-01-14 04:59:55

使用说明

所有模型资源均由用户上传分享，内容来源于网络公开资源
侵权投诉：通过抖音私信 @jobsfan 联系我们（需附版权证明），24小时内处理
模型将通过邮件发送（5分钟内自动发送），感谢理解带宽压力，超过1小时没收到，请联系我们

关于费用

我们是爱好者共建社区，为维持服务器成本，每个模型收取微量费用（仅覆盖基础开支）。我们承诺最低成本运营，感谢您的支持！

扫码手机访问

抖音私信 @jobsfan

Summary

These joystick housings and balls in my Battlezone were worn out - the typical slop. These parts solve that. There are 4 variations depending on what works best for you: round vs octagon and with/without support.

Round: If you want a pretty precise reproduction, you'll want this. Printability is the issue here. It's hard to support a part like this without the surface quality suffering.
Octagon: If you want a part that prints easier and looks better, you'll want this. Of course it doesn't look like the original from the outside, but it's not visible to the player so this is my preference.
With support: Though 45 degree angles typically don't need supports, I had some trouble with the area this supports printing properly without designing a built in support to assist. This helped me get successful prints. I recommend this for both octagon and round. You still need to enable supports in your slicer if you use a "with support" model.
Without support: You might have better luck than I did without them. You might be able to save a small amount of time and material with generated supports rather than my built in supports, or perhaps you're better at tweaking support settings to address this trouble spot than I am.

If you have any questions or difficulties, comment here or reach out on the klov forums and I'll try to assist.

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender 3
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.4 nozzle, 0.15 layer height
Infill:
25%
Filament brand:
Polymaker
Filament color:
Black
Filament material:
PLA+/pro
Notes:
I highly recommend tree supports, a z distance of 0.15 to match the layer height, and an x/y distance of 0.6 (with "z overrides x/y"). A gap that small is harder to remove but will result in a better print. You probably need to be fairly experienced and skilled at support removal otherwise it'll not only be frustrating, but you might injure yourself. Limit supports to "touching buildplate".

I had some trouble with prints failing because the print head caught on something resulting in layer shifting. I suggest enabling "z hop when retracted" to help. I played with other settings to try to help with this as well. YMMV here.

I chose a minimum layer time of 7.5 seconds to help properly print the little interlocking nub that plugs into the other half.

Post-Printing

Support removal

Use pliers to break the larger tree branches in order to enable flexing of the support interface rather than leaving them as large and rigid support sub-objects. Then use a plastic hammer and putty knife with the knife on the edge of a support interface at about a 45 degree angle and tap firmly one or more times to separate the interface from the part. In the case of the part where the microswitches mount, I found it easiest to separate one end, then get my putty knife between the support and the housing and tap the knife through the rest of the support.

As noted above, these supports can be hard to remove and it'll be easy to injure yourself. Please wear gloves and be careful about how you're positioned such that if you slip while doing this, you won't risk hurting yourself. Ask me how I know. You've been warned! :)

Once complete, use a butane torch to quickly and carefully pass over the support scars to eliminate discoloration.

Ball smoothing

Insert a roll pin far enough into the ball to allow you to chuck it in your drill. Then use a combination of sanding and novus while spinning until the ball is smooth. End with the novus polishing. Go easy, don't overdo it, and sand as evenly as possible - just enough to get the ball smooth but no more. If you've done it right, you should end up with a glossy, smooth ball.