Enders 3 V2 主板箱体(外部)
Ender 3 V2 Motherboard Case (External)
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Motherboard Case Designed to externalize the BTT_SKR_V3 board or the creality stock board 4.2.7
I designed this because I was getting tired of getting under my printer and risking knocking my leveling out of wack by either moving screws or bumping the gantry etc.
This print requires
(5) m3x5mm thread heat inserts - to fit the original 3mm socket head screws from creality
(2) m3x8 heat insert - for lid
(2-4) m3 hammer nuts (tnuts)
(2-4) m3x10 bolts
(2) m4 bolts to mount elbow to the back of the carriage
1.5ft length of pairs 16 gauge wire (power)
extension for display adaptor
NOTE: This solution by default does not allow for the stock power wire from the power block. you will have to replace this with a longer cord
NOTE: the display cord is not long enough to reach the original position. you will either have to move the display to the left hand side or extend the display cable.
This will fit either the BTT_SKR_V3.0 OR the stock creality board.
The front panel will have to be cut out after print.
Print Settings
- Printer brand:
Creality
- Printer:
Ender 3
- Rafts:No
- Supports:No
- Resolution:0.2mm
- Infill:15%
- Filament brand:
Inland
- Filament color:
Egyptian Blue
- Filament material:
PLA
Post-Printing
Step 1
Cut out the front panel with exacto knife or box cutter
Step 2
Heat press thread into board in 5 locations
Step 3
Remove Power Supply and replace power lines with longer wire.
Make sure you remove the Y motor cord and y limit switch cord from the power casing to re route them. You will not have enough cord if you do not.
Replace power block into the chassis. Make sure you remove the old rub tape from the old cord and add that to the new cord at the location where the wire rubs the chassis.
Step 4
after removing the wires from the previous board, route them first through the elbow(if used) then through the spacer and finally into the case.
OPTIONAL: mount the case to the chassis/frame with all 4 bolts and t-nuts (hammer nuts)
Make sure you include the spacer. The case alone does not have room to clear the Z axis motor
In my case it was easier to wire up the board AFTER routing them in the case, then mount the board then use the two nuts that are left exposed to mount to the chassis
step 5
Wire up your board
mount the board to the case using the same screws that came with the printer
be careful to route them appropriately. There is some space for extra wire behind the board and in the elbow
Validate the board is wired correctly and there are no loose wired
step 6
mount the stock case fan to the lid using m3 bolts, washers and nuts
run the power for the case fan through the ports in the lid. and attach to the board
OPTIONAL: mount the baffle plate to the board using m3 bolts washers and nuts. If using another case fan, this can be mounted at this point
Mount the lid to the case
use the m3 socket head bolts with washer to secure the lid to the case. ensure there is no pinched wires
snug the wires into the elbow.as needed (if used)
attach the lid to the the elbow
How I Designed This
Design
Designed with Fusion 360 with the help of other very talented artist that provided the Ender 3 3mf file
https://www.printables.com/model/255019-ender-3-v2-step-file-for-easy-modification-and-des
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