Tubular WideX 'box' 5inch - 高分辨率牙签 - 可3D打印框架

Tubular WideX "box" 5inch - HD toothpick - 3d-printable frame

2024-04-07 16:58:18

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Tubular WideX 'box' 5inch - 高分辨率牙签 - 可3D打印框架

Summary

Disclaimer: This is a work-in-progress-design - i have not built it myself!

This is the 5" "WideX box" version of the Tubular frame. There also is a 4" version available.

Note: This is a more advanced tubular frame. If this is your first go at one, I personally suggest the TrueX-version first - it's the most easiest to build.

All of my tubular designs can be built at home with carbon rods and a 3d-printer. This version here uses 12mm and 10mm carbon rods.

I have 5 designs currently available:

Deadcat - for long-range (+ new subtype "box-style")

WideX - for Freestyle (+ new subtype "box-style")

TrueX - for Racing

More information can be found here on my website.

If you plan on building one or would like to get more info, there is a Discord server dedicated to this frame class. I’m trying to establish this as a general community about tube-based frames. You'll get all the support you need there. I'll do what i can to help you. I can also design custom mounts for you that may not exist yet (for free).

https://discord.gg/ZBEmBTNHAc

If you really plan on building one, make sure you hop on Discord - there are others building one currently on there and sharing their progress :-)

Custom Section

Printing

Best printed with a material that's resistant to impact force - I personally have used PA-CF in the past, lately switched to PLA+ though which has been working fine as well. Normal PLA is too brittle and weakens in the sun.

You won't need supports on this, everything should print fine without.

Always print each part "flat", so none of the hole is pointing directly up (as a 3d-print usually is weakest along the layer lines) - even though it's counter-intuitive.

After printing, you need to drill out the holes using a 8mm and 6mm drill. Even better: use a "reamer", a very handy tool that you can get for a few bucks from Aliexpress. If you consider building more than one tubular frame, it will be well worth it.

Cutting the rods

I added the rod lengths in a separate picture. Make sure to cut them wearing a mask in a well ventilated space (I use a dremel outside, hand saw is better as it creates less carbon dusk - but is more of a hazzle).

One suggestion: Make the inner rods shorter than in the picture by 1mm. I found this makes assembly a little bit easier and not hurt stability too much, as drilling out the holes never goes 100%.

Will make a video soon about this type of frames.

Regarding the rods:

I'm using these: https://aliexpress.com/item/4000407024494.html

You will need (this is the amount you have to order):

2 x 8x6mm (so 4 x 500mm pieces)
1 x 6x4mm (so 2 x 500mm pieces)

If you source them elsewhere: Twilled rods as in the above link are always better and more robust, but pulltruded ones also work (even cheaper). For this size, in my opinion pulltruded is perfectly fine (and a frame costs around 3€).

You need to glue the rods together with the 3d-printed parts. I've found that epoxide works best and gives a strong connection. Superglue also works, but will release more easily in case of a crash (you can then re-glue it on the field, but it's still annoying, better use epoxide).

Before glueing, put everything together to see if it fits, or it you need to drill out the holes more. Only after you have everything together perfectly, disassemble (remember which part goes where), put on the glue one place after the other and stick in the rods. In the end align everything well again (epoxide takes a bit to cure). And then let it sit until it has dried.

When using superglue just put it all together until you're happy and add the superglue into the joints. Use one with a high viscosity (very fluent), so that creeps into all of the holes.

Good luck! :-)