Scion FRS, Subaru BRZ - 后轮转向杆

Scion FRS, Subaru BRZ - Rear Sway Bar

2024-04-23 12:03:11

使用说明

所有模型资源均由用户上传分享，内容来源于网络公开资源
侵权投诉：通过抖音私信 @jobsfan 联系我们（需附版权证明），24小时内处理
模型将通过邮件发送（5分钟内自动发送），感谢理解带宽压力，超过1小时没收到，请联系我们

关于费用

我们是爱好者共建社区，为维持服务器成本，每个模型收取微量费用（仅覆盖基础开支）。我们承诺最低成本运营，感谢您的支持！

扫码手机访问

抖音私信 @jobsfan

Summary

This is a rear sway bar for a scion frs, subaru brz, and toyota 86. It is lightweight, easy to adjust, has a super wide adjustment range, and is inexpensive to build. You will need to assemble the parts and then weld them together to make the bar. The only fabrication for the bar is welding, cutting, drilling, and tapping. You will need endlinks as well more on that at the end.

This is intended to be made out of 4130 chromoly, I did not heat treat mine and it has held up fine. However my car has pretty stiff suspension so it might break if you have stock springs. For the main bar I used .625" x .058" wall which gives the bar a range of 80-230 lb/in compared to the stock bar which is 120 lb/in.

This bar is 1 pound lighter than stock, you can adjust the settings with a single wrench. I cost me around $150 for everything.

You will need 2 of "arm05", and 2 of "nut01" laser cut out of 4130 in .25" thickness. I used sendcutsend for this and it was $57. The nut01 file is intended to be tapped with a 3/8-16 tap then welded to the backside of the arm. 3d print the drill guide to make it easier to tap. The nut01 file is actually totally optional to make. If you don't want to use it you can just use a normal nut and then use two wrenches to make adjustments.

You also need 40" of 4130 tubing in 0.625" OD. I choose 0.058" wall thickness but you can go up or down from there if you want the bar to be stiffer or softer.

I welded the arms onto the bar 38.5 inches apart (inside to inside) however I would recommend welding one on then checking the fitment on your car to make the final call. This may vary depending on what endlinks, endlink spacers, and lca you are using. Note that you want the endlinks to be very slightly angled inboard (2-4 degreed) such that the upper part of the endlink attached to the arm is more inboard than the lower part of the endlink attached to the LCA. The lower attachment point moves inboard at static ride height.

For sway bar brackets and bushings I used Prothane 19-1152

You also need to make a backing plate for the brackets. If you look at where the stock sway bar bracket attaches it is not flat. For this I used 3mm 7075 aluminum plate which you can get on ebay (search "3mm 7075 plate") for $4. 7075 is space-craft grade and crazy strong and light. I just cut this on a band saw and drilled holes in it by hand.

Lastly you need some 5/8 split shaft collars. I picked up some on ebay. I would recommend getting and using 4.

At this point the bar is done and you have to make endlinks. I used summit brand SUM-MSM6 and SUM-MSF6 and for spacers I happen to have a lathe. For some people it might be easier to just buy something commercially available. Just make sure it's compatible with the 3/8-16 nut.

If you have adjustable length endlinks set them to 80mm center to center.

Scion FRS, Subaru BRZ - 后轮转向杆

朋友，你觉得上面这个模型，属于下面的哪个分类？