紧凑型控制器箱，用于Arhatreya S96迷你无人机

Compact controller chassis for Arhatreya S96 mini drone

2023-07-25 23:59:33

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Summary

The S96 drone is cool - zippy, decent position stabilization, all'round a very decent toy - and compact enough to carry it with you. The smartphone app controls are awful though, and the controller, while working well, is ludicrously big - and mostly empty. So I "repackaged" its guts into something much smaller.

Instead of 3xAA it takes 3x AAA batteries (same contact plates - reuse from the old remote). Only one of the 4 LEDs as a power indicator. No phone holder 'cause I found them to be more trouble than help.

Dimensions compacted from 160/90/53mm(/76mm with knobs) to 146/92/19mm(/26 with knobs)

"Artifact" list:

original control board from the controller
M3 heat-set inserts, 4pcs.
M3x8 screws, 4pcs (cone head preferred)
2 Battery contacts (flat, spring) - to be extracted from the original controller.
LED, cable, plug - extracted from the controller, cut the cable after the 1st of the 4 LEDs
glue

FreeCAD source attached

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Longer
Printer:
Longer LK5 Pro
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Filament brand:
Plast-Spaw
Filament color:
any 3 contrasting colors
Filament material:
PLA
Notes:
Print: 2x Knob, 2x Cover, 1x all the other STLs. Top, Bottom: black, "Diffuser" - white, all the rest: blue, except for buttons where you start with blue and swap to white at layer 11:

Printing buttons with symbols: Print all buttons at once. In Cura: Extensions/Post-Processing/Modify Gcode/Add Script, select "Pause at height" - pause at: layer, 11, then swap filament to different color when the printer pauses. I had problems with adhesion - had to add brim, and overlap brims of all the buttons so they all held each other attached.

Heat-set the 4 M3 inserts into the four "pylons" of the Top.

Mount the button-base, make sure all buttons move freely (deburr the holes if needed), then glue button caps, same order as original (Left: Speed, Avoid, Take-off, Land. Right: Flip, Headless, Home, Trim)

Press-fit the diffuser into the central LED hole.

Dismantle the original remote. Unplug the LEDs. Extract the main board, cut the power cables at the battery basket side. Extract the two single battery contact plates (the ones the cables were attached to) and solder them back on.

Extract the LED nearest to the plug (alongside with its cable and plug.) Cut the cables right past the LED (separating it from the remaining 3 LEDs). Press the LED into the hole in the top part of the chassis.

Place the board in the bottom part. Fit the contact plates into the two slots at two ends of the battery compartment. Insert 3 AAA batteries. Mount the slider on the on/off switch.

Plug the LED in, attach the top part (close the box). Don't screw it firmly together yet.

Dragging by the joystick pins slide the mainboard so it's properly aligned: the squares around the joystick pins align with the square holes in the top cover. At that point screw holes should be perfectly aligned - screw the four screws into the bottom.

Put round covers over the joystick holes, then push-fit the knobs. Afterwards, remove the knobs, apply a little glue and push-fit them again.