BMO 回溯派模拟器

BMO Retropie Emulator

2023-08-05 00:11:48

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Summary

This is a fully functioning retropie emulating BMO!!!

There was a lot of inspiration form RaspBMO (Handheld Raspberry Pi Emulator) by 3Derp, but I wanted to design it myself around some stuff I already had and because I'm still learning CAD so it was a good challenge.

Pls ignore my terrible soldering skills in the pictures lol :)

Details

This uses a Raspberry Pi 3B+ and will work the same with any model of pie of this size (but the performance will be better or worse depending on the pi so if you got an old one just google to find the performance)

The screen used is one I found on eBay and is fairly common, it uses the pi GPOI pins for power and HDMI for its video (there are models without the HDMI but I wouldnt get them as they run at low fps and use more GPIO pins which I needed for the controls).
The one I chose also had its GPIO headers split so the spare one can be accessed easier from the top.

I used some basic prototyping boards for the buttons and used tactile buttons which do the job but if I were to make it again I would get some softer buttons to press.
The size of boards I used were 40x60mm and you can probably just cut some to size if you have a larger board.
You can probably copy the button placement from the video but if not you can print the stuff first then just solder it after, which is probably better as some buttons are on the edge of the actual button.

I used the GPIO pins and GPIOnext to configure them (ill link a video below on how to set it up, its quite simple)

to connect to the GPIO headers on the pi I modified some dupont connectors from amazon to have a little bit lower clearance by removing some plastic from the female sides, this allowed them to be connected and then the screen hat to be put on top and the HDMI plugged in.
I did this as I didn't want to solder directly to the pi in case I ever wanted it for something else but if you dont mind soldering to the pi you can just do that.

For the sound I used small 40mm 0.5W 8 Ohm speakers and a PAM4803 board to drive it, the one I bought had a volume knob but you can get one without or even get a sliding pot and mount it to the frame as well.
To power it I used the 3.3V power from the GPIO as the 5V was taken up by the screen but it works just as well.

To power the whole thing I used an old phone charging power bank that I had, this works but isn't ideal as the undervolted symbol appears on the pi, but it works for most things just the more powerful systems lag a bit when run off the battery.
if you use a battery bank get the measurements first as it has to fit in the slot at the back, or just modify the model. (The compartment is around 80x150mm but this includes the cable that needs to be plugged into it.)
Feel free to suggest an improvement that would fit in the battery slot or even create one yourself!!
Also I kinda forgot to add a power switch but it has a clip to access the battery slot so I just unplug it and re-plug it in as a power switch lol.

The assembly process is a bit messy but I designed it to be able to be assembled all in the back piece and the the front plate is just a cover, so when testing it as a whole for the first time you can plug in a keyboard for setup and other stuff if needed.

for some reason I designed the whole thing to use no screws, dont ask me why it would have probably been easier with screws but everything fits well together with a bit of blutack to hold some stuff together :)

The pi mounts with just some regular filament which isn't the most secure but it works and you can probably use some screws if you find some that fit the hole, but the filament pins work fine as the pi is pushed against the outer shell so it isn't going anywhere.

The boards with the buttons on them just slide in and the back trigger buttons mount to little inserts which should be slotted in after the actual trigger button is slotted in through the front.
all of the cables coming from the pi can be routed under it and to wherever it needs to be.

The speakers are held in the slots with a bit of blutack but that's just so they stay there when assembling, and when the case is open, when closed they are pressed against the case so they cant move.
If you have a driver board with the volume knob you can slot it in the circle hole and fasten it down with the nut, this is very finicky so you should probably have soe long cables to make it easier then just stuff them away at the end.

The main body should be printed upright with supports at only the bottom and the face piece flat both with no supports.

If anyone actually decides to make this, good luck I guess and have fun with the BMO!