Tubular WideX 'box' 4英寸 - 高质量牙签模型 - 可3D打印的框架

Tubular WideX "box" 4inch - HD toothpick - 3d-printable frame

2024-01-08 22:06:04

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Tubular WideX 'box' 4英寸 - 高质量牙签模型 - 可3D打印的框架

Summary

This is the 4" WideX "box" version of the Tubular frame. This is the strongest design yet and will be able to take a beating. All electronics are mounted on a cage part which itself is mounted to the core frame by zip ties.
Apart from higher sturdiness, this also helps when you crash hard and damage the core frame. You can then just remove a few zip ties and screws, and switch to a new core frame rather easily.
This is a more advances tubular frame. If this is your first go at one, I personally suggest the TrueX-version first - it's the most easiest to build.

Currently there only is a mount for the O3 air unit. I'll gladly design a mount for your VTX system, just hit me up on Discord.

I added both motor mounts for 12mm and 16mm motors.

I have 3 (5) designs currently available:

Deadcat - for long-range (+ new subtype "box-style")

WideX - for Freestyle (+ new subtype "box-style")

TrueX - for Racing

More information can be found here on my website.

If you plan on building one or would like to get more info, there is a Discord server dedicated to this frame class. You'll get all the support you need there. I'll do what i can to help.

https://discord.gg/ZBEmBTNHAc

The weight of the frame itself as in the picture is around 81grams.

Print instructions

Best printed with a material that's resistant to impact force - I personally have used PA-CF in the past, lately switched to PLA+ or PLA Meta though which has been working fine as well. Normal PLA is too brittle and weakens in the sun.

You won't need supports on this, everything should print fine without.

Always print each part "flat", so none of the hole is pointing directly up (as a 3d-print usually is weakest along the layer lines) - even though it's counter-intuitive.

After printing, you need to drill out the holes using a 8mm and 6mm drill. Even better: use a "reamer", a very handy tool that you can get for a few bucks from Aliexpress. If you consider building more than one tubular frame, it will be well worth it.

Building instructions

I added the rod lengths in a separate picture. Make sure to cut them wearing a mask in a well ventilated space (I use a dremel outside, hand saw is better as it creates less carbon dusk - but is more of a hazzle).

One suggestion: Make the inner rods shorter than in the picture by 1mm. I found this makes assembly a little bit easier and not hurt stability too much, as drilling out the holes never goes 100%.

Will make a video soon about this type of frames.

Regarding the rods:

I'm using these: https://aliexpress.com/item/4000407024494.html

You will need:

1 x 8x6mm
2 x 6x4mm

8mm - 230 + 230 + 156 + 156 = 772
6mm - 124,5 + 124,5 + 259 = 508
6mm - 157 + 157 + 45 + 30 + 30 = 419
6mm - 54 + 54 + 38 + 38 = 184

6mm total -> 1111mm

If you source them elsewhere: Twilled rods as in the above link are always better and more robust, but pulltruded ones also work (even cheaper). For this size, in my opinion pulltruded is perfectly fine (and a frame costs around 3€).

You need to glue the rods together with the 3d-printed parts. I've found that epoxide works best and gives a strong connection. Superglue also works, but will release more easily in case of a crash (you can then re-glue it on the field, but it's still annoying, better use epoxide).

Before glueing, put everything together to see if it fits, or it you need to drill out the holes more. Only after you have everything together perfectly, disassemble (remember which part goes where), put on the glue one place after the other and stick in the rods. In the end align everything well again (epoxide takes a bit to cure). And then let it sit until it has dried.

When using superglue just put it all together until you're happy and add the superglue into the joints. Use one with a high viscosity (very fluent), so that creeps into all of the holes.

Good luck! :-)