Rockler 4英寸旋转水管附件 - 永久密封环更换

Rockler 4" Swivel Hose Attachment - Permanent Gasket Replacement

2024-01-14 12:52:32

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Summary

Do you use any Rockler-branded "Dust Right" attachments in your workshop dust extraction system?

Have you, perchance been using their 4" (100mm ish) rotating/swivelling hose adaptor like the one found here:

https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-4-swivel

Have you found that the rubber gasket/adaptor has decayed and even disintegrated over time, but the plastic rotating bit is fine?

Do you want/need a permanent gasket replacement to join it to a standard 100mm PVC pipe, and never have this gasket-failure-related down time again?

Then this, dear reader might be of interest to you.

Firstly, I just want to say that the rubber gasket worked well for about 3 years.. but Australian conditions aren't great for preserving rubber long term. Also, the gasket failed at the worst time while I was using my planer, sending my ceiling-mounted flex hose crashing to the floor. By the time I had shut everything down... it was too late. Chips and dust got EVERYWHERE.

It took me several days to clean up... so I wanted to ensure this didn't occur again.

Also, while I see the value of the rubber gasket as a cost effective seal, Rockler stuff isn't sold in many places here in Australia, and I wasn't going to stop my wood working while I waited for a replacement to wind itself to me.

So here we are...

Print Settings

Printer brand:
AnkerMake
Printer:
AnkerMake M5
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.15mm
Infill:
50% or more, add perimeter layers too
Filament brand:
Doesn't matter
Filament color:
Whatever you like (I like fluorescent green for easy location)
Filament material:
PLA/ABS/PETG/whatever
Notes:
Now this is designed to use M4 machine screws/bolts/washers to attach the flange bases to the main body. However, if you have larger M6 bolts/machine screws, I suggest printing this with 8 or even 10 perimeter/shells to give you the option to drill out the holes without weakening the connections.

I also recommend a higher infill density... this is likely to be in a work shop and it's entirely possible to smack the adaptor with a plank of wood (particularly in my shop). If you're really worried about it, just increase the shells to 12 and have a solid main body.

Personally, the tapering works best when the material has a little flexibility, so I use PETG and I'm very happy with the results. That said, PLA and ABS would work well too.

Now I just want to say that if you're going to use supports, I highly recommend organic types "on build plate only" with detachable connection points, particularly if you're using PETG. However, cleaning up the flange bases isn't always trivial. If in doubt, try printing the flange bases without supports, and if that doesn't work, then try the settings mentioned above.

Post-Printing

INSTALLATION

I've designed this to work specifically for 100mm PVC piping (because I had it laying about when I built my dust collection system), however the tapered pipe connection has a little "wiggle room" for slightly larger and smaller OD ducting.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING THE RUBBER GASKET:

Take any attached hoses off, disconnect from your pipe work and remove your old gasket from the swivel joint. Keep the plastic swivel bit, and clamp...
Print the "Tapered main body", and TWO copies of the flange base. Each flange base covers half of the bottom. You need both bases for this to work.
Once you've printed the bases. Clean up the flange bases to ensure the recessed ridge of the flange fits around the circular ridge on the swivel joint. It's not an issue if it's a little loose.
Attach the first half flange base LOOSELY to the bottom of the tapered main body with M4 machine screws.. but if you only have M6 (I don't recommend going larger), drill the holes out a little wider to fit. (Handy to have printed the parts with additional "perimeters/shells" beforehand).
Insert swivel joint into place under the first base and then attach the second flange base around the joint. Tighten the parts as needed.
Check to see if the swivel joint rotates freely. If not, loosen and re-seat as needed.
If you're using 100mm PVC pipe for your ducting, the tapered body should slide onto your pipe end, and since it tapers, should tighten and seal on the pipe. No need to go overboard, a firm press + twist will be more than adequate to hold it in place.
Reattach your flex hose with whatever hose clamp you have at hand on the bottom.