终极辐射4 mini核弹-真实尺寸！

The Ultimate Fallout 4 Mini Nuke - Life Size!

2024-05-04 17:51:03

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Summary

As a big fan of the Fallout franchise, I always wanted a game-accurate mini nuke, but I was never happy with any of the other models out there (Not to mention the lack of STEP files or other solid model files to aid in modification or remixing etc), so... I made my own!
As it stands, I think this is possibly the most game-accurate Mini Nuke available.
It is 'life size' as scaled against the handy yardstick that is in the game 3D files, so it should be as 1:1 scale as possible.

I haven't printed this myself yet, I'll update with pictures (and possible modifications) once done.
I plan to print in resin, so please post your makes so we can see how it all fits together with various printing methods!

This is as close as I can get to the 'real thing' with a few concessions, which I might add to a V2.0

The lid screws on so it can be used as a container, rather than the lid sliding into place and being fastened shut by the second row of screws.
A lack of detonation mechanism (The Top Cap is screwed directly to the lid using the top row of screws).
The complete lack of internals, due to my aim of using this as a container.

This has been designed in inch/imperial measurements for lore accuracy (Which was a pain in the bum for my metric brain), and all the screw sizing is in imperial. However, due to the design needing the threads tapped (see below) you can substitute metric hardware of the closest size if you cannot source inch size screws.

The reason I included the dual part lid is both to aid in painting, and to enable future design of the internal mechanism (The red top cap appears to be the trigger for the firing mechanism that will have to move independently to the actual lid on impact to fire the nuke), yeah, it's another part to print, but I think the result will be worth the wait.

The screws needed are listed below, I designed the 3D model using STEP files of the screws from McMaster Carr, so it should all 'just fit'.
You will see the holes that the screws are supposed to thread into are too small, this is so you can drill the holes to the appropriate size for the thread tap you use (Check google for tap drill size charts) and tap out the holes as needed. This will help ensure a nice clean strong thread, and the ability to use inch and metric screws.
Just take the tapping slowly and work your way in and out, backing out and clearing the cut plastic every couple turns so you don't end up ripping the plastic. Slower is better here!

Here are the screw sizes as designed:
All screws are 'Steel Slotted Flat Head' screws.

Top Cap and Base Clips - 16 of 6-32, 5/16" long
Top of Body - 8 of 8-32, 3/16" long
Middle of Body - 6 of 5/16-18, 1/2" long (will need to be cut down in length unless you can find 3/16" long screws).
Fin Assembly - 8 of 6-32, 3/4" long
Fin Ring - 16 of 6-32, 3/16 long

Assembly is straight forward. I suggest attaching the Fin Assembly and Base Clips to the Base before attaching it all to the Body to make life easier. You may need small hands/stubby screwdriver/socket wrench with flat screwdriver bit to attach the Base assembly to the Body.

For painting, I suggest painting be completed before final assembly. The separate parts will make painting easier with less masking. A picture of the game version is included for reference.
See the pictures included for painting reference. (Note: The pictures are the textures applied to the game model, not applied to my version).

You will notice that the body has grooves that correspond to those on the game model. I suggest painting them a metallic colour, or weathering as per the game version. The yellow stripe should be pretty easy to paint in the wide groove too.

In the two 'Complete' 3D files, I have left two shapes, 'Internal Cutout Shape' and 'Outer Shell Shape' these are there so you can more easily make modifications etc (Using them as guides or for boolean operations etc etc) to perfectly match the inside and outside of the model. They are not intended to be 3D printed.

The individual pieces are oriented (I think) for optimum printing, centered on coordinates 0,0,0. They should all be good to do, assuming you have a print bed tall enough for the Body part.
I have also included a split version of the body for those with machines with lower build heights. It's up to you to align and glue the pieces though. :)

I have included STL, STEP and the original Rhinoceros 3D files to enable modification if needed. Just be cool and credit me somehow. :)