Protogen头部，Nio，v1.1

Summary

Printing

• For 3D printing use the 3mf files, they are set up for prusa slicer.
• For more info check Print Settings section

See through parts

The visor is a challenging part to make. You have to use vacuum forming to create it. 3D printing even with transparent filament is nowhere near clear enough to be usable. However in the maker community making vacuum formed parts are not unheard of.

In this video http://y2u.be/RNAc0C8nApc you can see great tutorial how visor can be made and colored in a workshop. I decided to 3D print a buck on a large printer and send it to vacuum forming shop. I made an error by not smoothing the buck enough. It truly needs to be smooth like glass. I ended up with 3D printing artifacts pressed into my visor so it is harder to see.

Other option for creating the buck beside 3D printing is to mill the buck from soft wood and polish it.

• Visor: vacuum formed from PET-G clear plastic 2mm thick sheet using 3D printed buck. Buck file is Buck-new.stl, make sure to completely smooth the buck before using it for vacuum forming. Colored using iDye Poly dye for synthetic fabrics. Use VisorInnerCuttingTemplate.stl to mark and cut the shape.
• Ear covers: Cut from clear PET-G 2mm thick sheet. Colored using iDye Poly - dye for synthetic fabrics. The shape is cut using 3d printed template SideCoversCuttingTemplate.stl
• iDye Poly: used to color the visor and the ear covers. Use water no hotter than 55°C. Otherwise you will deform the plastics.

Printed parts

For printed parts I provide the 3mf files that can be loaded into Prusa Slicer and contain some printing settings. Print all these parts:

• ElectronicsBox.3mf
• Circles-R.3mf - Has 5 holes where you need to install brass threaded inserts
• Circles-L.3mf - Has 5 holes where you need to install brass threaded inserts
• Band.3mf - when clearing supports from this part pay attention not to snap off the small tab for holding the side fan. Has 3 holes where you need to install brass threaded inserts
• HeadBand.3mf - this part is angled so that the inner spaces are flat and can be printed correctly. Notice the painted support they should be enough to print this part successfully. Has 4 holes where you need to install brass threaded inserts
• FurRetainer.3mf - you have to print this part with no brim, it will not fit on Prusa i3 MK3 otherwise
• Side-R.3mf - Has 5 holes where you need to install brass threaded inserts

• Side-L.3mf - Has 5 holes where you need to install brass threaded inserts

• Threaded inserts - you need these for several parts so you can assemble the printed parts. At the start of this video http://y2u.be/G-UF4tv3Hvc you can see how to insert them using soldering iron.

• HeadCover.3mf - This part does not fit on Prusa i3, you have to use something bigger like Anycubic Kobra, Anycubic Chiron, or use printing services of some printshop. Your local maker space may be also able to help you.

Assembly

For screws you can buy set like this from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001345484717.html

To assemble the Mechanical parts and fix neck fur and ears to it follow the picture step-by-step guide from 1 to 8

Don't forget to cover the fans with the side covers. They should be sanded down carefully so that they fit tightly into Circles-L and Circles-R printed parts

Ears

You can use provided patterns from Patterns.zip file.

Ears are cut from 10mm thick camping mat. Each ear consists of 2pieces. Connect the 2 pieces together by pressing together thin strip on the top edge of the ear. then glue the ear to HeadCover printed part. The HeadCover has holes to guide you where the base of the ear should be glued. Also the help to make the hot glue form a plug that holds the ear in place.

• 2x Base Ear piece - the 2 pieces are mirror images of each other
• 2x Top Ear piece - the 2 pieces are mirror images of each other

Fur

You can use provided patterns from Patterns.zip file.

Furring the head is serious work. There are provided patterns that are marked by letters. On each edge there are arrows indicating how the pieces go together.

For neck part you will need pieced A, B, D, S. Make sure to create one normal and one mirrored of each piece. The neck is attached to the head using FurFastener.3mf printed part.

For ears you will need pieces C, Q,T, X, Y, Z, W. Make one normal and one mirrored Note that piece C folds on itself to create cavity into the ear. W piece goes on the side of the head and pieces C, Q, T, Z go around it to form the shape of the ear.

To glue the fur on the ears start by fixing the corner where C, W, and T meet. Then slowly glue on T piece going up the inner edge of the ear. Then fix Q. Then inner part of C, then outer part of C and then fix Z to the rim of the ear. Slowly sew X and Y together on the backside of the ear going from tip of the ear towards bottom. Glue the X and Y parts as you go. Lastly glue W to the HeadCover.3mf printed part.

Do the same for the other ear.

For hear you will need patterns K, M, N, R Make sure to create one normal and one mirrored of each piece. Sew the parts for each side together separately and fix them to the respective ear.

Cover the holes in HeadCover.3mf printed part by thin fabric. So that you are able to put stuffing into the hair.

The two parts of the hair should meet in the middle sew them together glue all parts expect M and N. Fill the hair with stuffing and slowly sew them together. Lastly glue R part to the head cover.

Electronics and Software

Here I would like to thank Kiraa for providing electronics and software for the Protogen. For more info about the connections and software visit:

Kiraa's Github: https://github.com/kiraacorsac/protogen

There you will find:

• BOM
• schema
• software
• Instructions for putting it all together.

Specific electronic parts I used

• Roll of 20AWG cables: From local electronics shop
• 50 x Dupont female pin: From local electronics shop
• 50 x Dupont connector casing: From local electronics shop
• 2 x 16x16 high neopixel high intensity flexible display:
• 2 x 5015 Turbine fan 5V: Originally I used 24V fans, but it made everything unnecessarily complicated.
• 1 x 3.3V to 5V logic converter: From local electronics shop
• A set of JST SM connectors: to connect the displays
• 1 x ESP 32: Brain of the protogen
• 1 x Battery case: for 4xAA batteries
• various soldering supplies and small components

Installing the visor and LED panels

Since the displays I am using are quite thin and flexible, We don't need to use any special frame to hold them

1. fix the visor on the assembled head using long strip of 6mm valkro hooks along the HeadBand piece and 6mm strip of valkro loops along the top edge of the visor.
2. position the LED displays inside the visor to see where they should go, use masking tape to attach them temporarily
3. Mark with non-permanent marker where the edges of the panels should go
4. Carefully take the visor off
5. Attach the LED panels using flexible electrical tape

PS: If you want to use wax polish on the inside if the visor cover the strips where the electrical tape and the valkro should go first. Otherwise the tapes may not stick.

Good luck

If you are reading this: Awesome! I wish you good luck with your project! I hope this was useful. If anything seems wrong write a comment please. Have a lot of fun with your cute toaster! :3c

Cover photo: vlakovlk