小管道无人机芦片3D模型

Smallpipe Drone Reeds

2024-04-04 03:09:06

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Summary

Two sets of printable smallpipe reeds. I did my best to make sure these are pretty much print, plug, and play with little to no of the usual bagpipe black magic. Ideas on how to improve consistency and reliability shamelessly taken from Bruce Hitching's excellent GHB drone reeds.

To make a drone reed, print one drone body and one drone pin.

Drone pins thread into the top of the drone bodies, and control the depth of the reed in the drone itself. There are two different drone pin files:

Capped -- These have a slight cap on the top to help hold wrapped hemp
Straight -- No cap on the top to hold wrapped hemp -- use these if the fit ends up being too tight, or if you just like them better

Drone bodies come in two types:

Straight drone bodies are pretty much just tubes with holes in them. They use a little less material than the beveled drone bodies, and might fit slightly better in some narrow stocks.
Beveled drone bodies have a slight widening above the sound hole, mostly to add some strength the the reed body, in a place I kept accidentally breaking them during bridle installation.

Drone bodies correspond with the drone they should go in:

Bass bodies should go in the bass drone. They should tune an octave below the tenors.
Tenor bodies should go in the tenor drones. These should tune to the low A on the chanter. If you have a 3-drone smallpipe, and two of the drones are the same size, you probably have two tenor drones.
Baritone bodies go in the baritone drones (In a 3-drone configuration, that's the middle-length drone. In a 4-drone configuration, that's probably the second largest drone). These usually tune to either the E or D below the chanter's E or D.
Alto bodies go in the alto drones (Usually only available in 4-drone configurations, and the smallest drone). These usually tune to the E or D on the chanter.

Notable features:

Drone bodies have a depression to allow flat tongues. No need (Or less need) to flex or bend tongues like they are on some commercial drone reeds
Threaded fit for drone bodies to pins, allowing consistent adjustments
Sized to fit most smallpipe drone seats (About 1/4" or 6.4mm). Just wrap the pin with the usual hemp and press fit

Post-Printing

Post-print, the only thing you'll really need to do is find suitable drone tongue material and tie an appropriate bridle. In some print settings, the threading can be too stiff and crack the drone body -- I ran a 1/4-20 die on the pins, and that made things go together easily enough, but still mostly airtight. Rubbing some beeswax on the pin threads if they're too loose fixes the airtightness problem, if it shows up.

Reed tongues:

Reed tongues are fairly simple -- they need to be stiff, but not too stiff. I started experimenting with polystyrene sheeting, it worked well, and I just stuck with that.

Generally -- cut your material so that it's as wide as the flat portion of the drone body (About 0.16", or 4mm at narrowest), and spans between the bottom shelf of the drone body, and just short of the top shelf above the sound hole in the drone body.

Polystyrene sheeting: I stopped experimenting here, because it's cheap and worked fairly well. .040"/1mm was about the thinnest I found that would work, .020"/0.5mm was difficult to properly seat with a bridle, and when it worked was just really quiet. .060" and .080" would probably work better than the .040" stuff, and give a little extra volume. It's flexible enough to put on either drone body, so no processing required -- just attach via bridle, and flex it away from the drone body if there isn't enough space to give a good sound.

Stiffer materials: I would recommend using the beveled drone bodies for anything stiffer, such as carbon fiber, unless you can reliably fold the material above the bridle.

Bridles:

Bridle options are varied. Hemp works in a pinch, but tubing can make your life a bunch easier. Just like in GHBs, once your bridle is in place, move it away from the drone to let more air through the reed (Flattening the pitch and increasing volume), or move it towards the drone to take less air (Sharpening the pitch and decreasing volume)

Hemp: Just tie two clover hitches tight against the drone body, around the tongue, and it should work. I found that spreading the two hitches out helped with holding tuning, but it wasn't super reliable (I am bad at tying knots, so YMMV)

Vinyl tubing: Hard vinyl tubing worked really well, and it's cheap. 5/16" or 8mm I.D. fits right over the top and holds things in place -- cut it to about 0.2-0.3" length and slide it over the tongue and reed body held together.

Latex tubing: Soft latex tubing works to hold things in place, but is really difficult to roll over the reed. Possibly useful to keep the base of the reed in place, works in a pinch to hold a reed tongue, but really hard to adjust on the fly.

Undersized o-rings worked well for mouth blowing, but wouldn't fit in my drone stock. Maybe good for testing out your reed material, since they were the easiest to get on.

Completely optional tips:

Glue: Holding the reed tongues in place is important, since they will stop making sound if they collide with the upper shelf of the reed body. You can put a dab of glue at the base of the drone reed to help prevent that, once you've gotten the reeds working. I didn't do this, since I was trying out a variety of reed materials/bridles, but it would probably solve some of the frustration I had when adjusting the bridle and suddenly getting no sound from the reed.

Heat shrink: Heat shrink is an option that worked passably to hold the base of the reed tongue to the drone body, without gluing. It also kind of worked for use as a bridle, but not very well.