大棵树科技 ADXL345 / LIS2 DW 床架安装

BigTreeTech ADXL345 / LIS2DW Bed Mount

2024-04-18 11:32:32

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Summary

TL;DR:
You will need:
2x M2.5 5mm
1x M4 20mm
1x M6 nut that came with accelerometer
1x rubber oring that came with accelerometer
Optional is an M10 screw though I would recommend not using a metal screw to prevent scratching the bottom of the build plate.

This model requires 2xM2.5 screws with a max length of 7mm (More and you will bulge the plastic at the bottom making it uneven and causing issues. If you do that though you can just heat up the plastic again with the build plate and make it perfectly flat with the heat. Just make sure you are above the temperature at which the plastic deforms.)
It requires 1x M4 max length 20mm.
It requires the screw that came with the accelerometer and the rubber to prevent you from destroying the PCB. Same thing as the first comment applies here. Don't tighten too much or you will bulge the plastic. Also don't tighten it too much with the PCB in place as you can knock off a couple components.
You can use a regular M10 screw to tighten the tool to the bed. But please just print the screw I added. With or without support works just fine as long as you use 0.1mm layer height.

During testing the part broke in the middle so thats why the M4 screw is there. It significantly increases the strength of the part. I chose to print it the way the STL shows as that creates a near perfect flat area for the accelerometer meaning the PCB wont bend weirdly.

I printed this at 173mm/s for everything on the inside. 56mm/s for the outside.

Let me know if you have any suggestions or if you want a change to be made

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender-3 V2 Neo
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.1
Infill:
GRID 40% / 2mm line distance
Filament brand:
Jayo
Filament color:
Black
Filament material:
PETG
Notes:
Support settings were 33% density because that seems to cover it perfectly. Though I am sure you could lower it. Added 2 erasers, 1 in the long screw at the back and 1 for the screw at the top. (Top is the smaller side.) The only place that should need support is the top shelf.

Post-Printing

Remove supports

If your support settings are good it should be super easy. That said I have disabled support interface and Support Top Distance is 0.2 and Support Bottom Distance is 0.1.

How I Designed This

This is designed in Tinkercad. Initially I downloaded the 3d model from BigTreeTech's github and with that I took the exact positions of the holes in the PCB. With that sorted I made everything around it. The screw is made with the Inline Easy Bolts. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6308320)