20毫米管道七孔连接器用于花园网、霜盖框架及篱笆结构

20mm Conduit 7-way connector for garden net/frost cover frame/trellis

2023-08-26 15:10:50

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Summary

DO NOT USE THIS FOR ELECTRICAL PURPOSES, THE HOLES WILL DRILL THROUGH THE WIRING.

This is my (somewhat unusual) 7 way connector for joining 20mm electrical conduit parts to form a frame for netting/frost covering garden sections... or maybe helping to build fanciful two and three-dimensional trellises.

By the way, if you're looking for a 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 or even 10-way connector, have a look here:

1- Way "Stake styled" Anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228095

1-Way "Screw down" anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228135

2-way "Straight joint" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187349

2-Way "Right-Angle" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6188056

3-Way "Y" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181085

3-Way "T" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163480

4-Way Cross Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163584

5-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181104

6-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181111

8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6167506

Half 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6195584

Quarter 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6196723

9-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6190630

10-Way Connector here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6182651

Now this is a serious connector, and it needs some hefty infill (say 50% or more) and additional boundary layers for maximum strength. The commercially-made joining pieces for these electrical conduit pieces.... are not designed for load-bearing applications nor the stresses of bent hoop structures.

I made this glorified beyond-asterisk-styled connector so that it can be used (with bending the limbs) to form a dome/gazebo like structure... or join hoop-house sections in all manner of directions and ways. 7-Ways are sometimes used in geodesic dome constructions, so have a look out for those. However, feel free to find creative uses for a 7 way!

WHY DO THESE CONNECTORS WORK IN ONLY ONE PLANE?

Since my first-generation 2/3 plane connectors broke due to FDM layer separation issues, all the connectors in this series are printed so all connectors extend out on one plane, meaning that FDM printers are more than capable of building these very strongly while lowering the risk of snapping bits off. To build structures on multiple planes, I use multiple offset T-connectors, rotated to connect things in whatever missing plane my parts don't point in. Of course, you can rotate the other connectors too. :-)

If you're worried about these connectors vulnerability to UV/water, I recommend using PETG/ABS or whatever outdoor suited filament of your choice... and taping/painting the connectors to block UV rays once the frame is assembled and in place. I used PETG and protecting it with tape works. Tape also has the advantage of being able to smooth any protruding bolt holes to reduce net snagging. Something paint can't to... :-)

Frankly, I'm still in the testing phase, but I'd love feedback, nothing has snapped or otherwise failed me so far, but I'm only most of the way through my first couple of seasons. I'd love to see pictures of the structures you can make.

Print Settings

Printer brand:
Prusa
Printer:
I3 MK3S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1mm
Infill:
50%
Filament brand:
Sunlu, eSun, Prusament, Tecor, doesn't matter
Filament color:
White is best, but I'd tape/paint it to protect from UV
Filament material:
PETG
Notes:
Note: I intentionally went for significant strength, so in PrusaSlicer, v.2.6, I made the following setting adjustments (I click the "Expert" button to show all the settings):

In Print Settings > Layers and Perimeters:

Set resolution/layer height to 0.1mm
Increased the number of "Vertical shells"/Perimeter layers to 8 or 10 (can't quite remember)
Enabled "Detect Bridging Perimeters"
Set seam position to "Aligned" (in advanced section)
Enabled "Fill gaps" (in advanced section)
Set Perimeter Generator to "Arachne"

In Print Settings > Infill:

Fill density 50%
Fill pattern: "Gyroid" (although you can use what you prefer)
Top fill pattern : "Monotonic Lines"
Bottom fill pattern: "Monotonic"

Post-Printing

Tips for adding bolts, and considerations doing that...

Now, you'll notice that each limb of this connector has a bolt hole. It's officially a 5mm hole, but it's intended for an M4 (4mm) bolt. if you prefer imperial measurements, I believe that's a 5/32" bolt. In terms of length, you MIGHT be able to get away with 40mm, but to be safe I use a 45mm (1 and 3/4" for those in imperial-driven lands).

USE THE CONNECTOR BOLT HOLES TO GUIDE YOUR DRILL BIT!

Firstly, while you can drill through both sides if you're pre-drilling on a drill press, I actually found that it's better to drill the conduit "in situ" (to ensure one end isn't twisted off axis compared to the other) with a cordless drill. In fact, I "friction fit" the entire frame assembly THEN drill my holes so everything lines up as it should.

Secondly, don't try to drill ALL the way through the conduit/connector from one side. Drill each side of the conduit tube hole separately, and if you REALLY want to eliminate drift/rotation problems from one side of the conduit to the next, I found drilling one hole, inserting a short 4mm wide bolt/dowel/PVC wall plug "spaghetti" into the first drilled hole, locked it in place while drilling the other side....

It's easy, simply drive your conduit all the way into the conduit hole, hold it there, and drill your 4mm or 5/32" hole into the conduit. Insert dowelSome of my joins don't even have bolts because I... frankly ran out of bolts. So I actually used my 4mm "spaghetti" to lock the conduit in place, and when I ran out of that, the friction fit has... so far, worked well.

LET'S TALK ABOUT NUTS & NETS:

I chose 45mm long bolts because the connector is 35mm high, and with the remaining 10mm or so I can then put washers on either side, then use a deeper-styled nylon locking nut.

However, nuts, and indeed, bolt heads may cause issues with snagging nets. To avoid this issue, I STRONGLY encourage you to consider netting with as tight a weave as you can get. You'll get fewer birds dive-bombing through the looser weaves, and it'll be less likely to catch and tangle. Otherwise, taping your connectors may smooth out some of the snag-able protrusions.